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| Photo Amanda Thomas |
One of my favourite tops has been another made from using an existing garment as a pattern. I really think it is such a clever idea as the risk element is diminished, seeing as the new item of clothing is going to replicate one of your tried and trusted wardrobe staples.
However, it is hard to give a step by step guide as each garment is unique. As I did with the blue leopard print sleeveless top, I can describe the methods I sued and be able to chuck in a masterclass - that time about inserting a zip.
This time I hope that I can show you haw to interface a neckline.
You will need:
- calico to make pattern pieces
- iron
- dressmaking pins
- dressmaking scissors
- paper scissors
- fabric (check you old garment's label for fabric info and then take it with you to the shop to work out how much you need.)
- bias binding for edges
- fastenings (I needed a zip, but decided to make a feature of it so got a gold chunky one).
- thread
- fabric marker
- zip foot.
- interfacing
- iron
I got all of these things from Fabricland
How to do it:
- Take a deep breath and cut your old garment along each seam to have individual pattern pieces.
- iron each piece flat
- pin each piece onto calico and cut out leaving a 1.5cm seam allowance.
- label each piece so you remember where they go!
- pin to your new fabric and cut out the new pieces. You will now have a collection of fabric pieces complete with seam allowances.
This is the point where our paths part. Each garment is going to be made in its own way, so I can only tell you how I went about reconstructing my garment.
I want to take this opportunity to talk about how to interface a neckline. Facing a neckline basically means cutting out a strip of fabric that follows the same curve as your neckline that is stitched to the raw neckline edge and folds over inside the garment.
- To cut your facing strips, lay out your facing fabric right side up, turn your garment inside out and place on the fabric. Use the neckline as a template for one side of your curve, then measure out 5cm and mimic a similar bigger curve to create a facing strip. Make sure you leave seam allowance at each end. Repeat for front ant back. Mark the shoulder seams.
- Iron on interfacing onto the wrong side of your strips to strengthen the fabric.
- Match the strips up at the shoulder seams, pin together and machine a running stitch. Press the seams open.
- The lower edge of the facing just hangs free so it needs to be edged to stop it fraying. If you haven't got an overlocker, use a zigzag stitch or simply cut with pinking shears.
- Stay Stitch the upper edge of the neckline facing. This stitch helps prevent the neckline from bunching up when you put it together with the garment.
- Pin the facing to the neckline, right sides together. Match up the shoulder seams and centre front to begin with and the rest should fall into place.
- Once all matched up, machine a small stitched (1.5mm) running stitch around the top of the neckline.
- Trim the raw edges down to reduce the circumference of the curved edge. On any particularly extreme curves it's also helpful to make little snips into the seams up to the stitched line.
- press the seams upwards (away from the garment). Machine a running stitch very close to the seam line, to help the facing roll to the inside of the garment and to keep the seams flat.
- Give the fabric a bit of a tug either side of the seam line to smooth things out.
- Turn the facing to the inside. roll it into the inside by a couple of extra mm so the seam line is visible from the inside but not the outside. Press in place.
